A tailor made suit will fit you well, but if you are not confident wearing it, it will ruin your look.
Men's suit jacket is defined by many things: the fabric from which they are made, including its color and weight, the style of the suit, the details, the degree of customization to its wearer, etc. Of these, the cut is the most important – a poorly cut suit will never look right on the wearer. The cut of a suit consists of two things: the overall silhouette and the particular proportions of the man who will be wearing it. A good tailor will cut a suit to flatter the wearer's best features and hide any flaws, which is perhaps the best argument for having one's suits custom tailored.
There are three major styles of suit: the English, the Italian (also known as Continental style) and the American.
The English is typified by soft, unpadded shoulders, a long, hourglass body with a high waist, either double or single breasted, with two or three buttons and side vents.
The Italian (or Continental) features a lightweight construction, squared, high shoulders, a short, close-fitting, single-breasted body, with two buttons and no vent.
The American has a natural-shoulder suit with a straight and somewhat roomier body, three-buttons and a back vent.
A bespoke suit is custom-tailored to a gentleman's measurements and built by hand by a master tailor.
The made-to-measure suits have been made to a gentleman’s size or off-the-rack suits that have been fitted and altered to the wearer's frame, though they can only be altered to a point, and will never fit as well as one custom built.
Off the rack suits, as the name suggests, have no alterations, and because they are made to an average specification, will not conform to many if any of the wearer's particulars.
The suit fabric
The most traditional fabric for a suit is wool, with a wide variety of colors and weights to choose from. Suits, particularly for summer, are also available in cotton, linen and even mohair and cashmere. There is also the tweed suit, a classic best suited to weekends and would be out-of-place at in the city.
Sartorial tips >