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The shoulder of the jacket - proportions

gary cooper, zakó vállának helyes aránya

The shoulders are very important to fit just right to the wearer. Throughout the history of the suit there were always preferred shoulder fashions, but one thing never ceased to be the most important: to adjust the suit's shoulders to the man's proportions.

If we think about the head as a picture and the shoulders as the frame it becomes easy to calculate the correct width. With wider features it becomes necessary to have built-up shoulders, but this same suit would make a normal- or narrow-faced man look his head is too small.
As a general rule all man should avoid suits with large shoulder pads unless they are extremely slope-shouldered or would like to appear taller at any cost.

Picture: Gary Cooper with his narrow features, playing it down with narrow shoulder silhouette.